Korean skincare routine for beginners: 5 steps, AM and PM

A basic Korean routine has five steps: cleanser, toner, a serum or ampoule, moisturizer and, in the morning, sunscreen. Cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen are the core that dermatologists recommend. Toner and serum are the extra light layers that Korean routines add in between.

The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) gives the basic order: wash with a gentle cleanser and pat dry, apply any treatment right after cleansing, then moisturizer and/or sunscreen, then makeup if you wear it. The brands' own directions fit that order. COSRX says to use its lotion after cleansing and toning and before sunscreen, and Isntree's sun gel goes on as the last step of a morning routine.

Cleanser. The AAD recommends a gentle, non-abrasive cleanser without alcohol, lukewarm water and your fingertips rather than a washcloth. Don't scrub, and pat dry with a soft towel.

Toner and serum. These are light layers that add hydrating ingredients after you cleanse. Anua says its toner can go on with a cotton pad or your fingertips, and SKIN1004 says to spread its ampoule evenly and pat it in.

Moisturizer. The AAD advises applying a facial moisturizer every day, because it helps hold water in the skin.

Sunscreen. The AAD recommends broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher on all skin not covered by clothing when you go outside, every day of the year. Even on cloudy days, up to 80% of the sun's UV rays can get through the clouds.

Your morning and evening routines are almost the same. The AAD says to wash your face twice a day, once in the morning and once at night, and again after heavy sweating. COSRX lists its cleanser for morning and night, and Anua's toner can be used at both times too.

The difference is sunscreen. It goes on in the morning as the last skincare step, before any makeup. Put it on before you head out: the AAD says it takes about 15 minutes for skin to absorb sunscreen. It also says to reapply about every two hours when you're outdoors, and after swimming or sweating. At night, finish with moisturizer instead. If you wear makeup, take it off first: COSRX's directions say to use its cleanser after removing makeup.

Don't open five new bottles on the same day. The AAD warns that using too many products may irritate the skin. Adding one new product at a time also tells you which one is the problem if your skin reacts.

Patch-test each new product first. The AAD's method: choose a quarter-sized spot where the product won't rub off, such as the inner arm or the bend of the elbow, and apply your normal amount twice a day for seven to 10 days. For a wash-off product like a cleanser, leave it on for about five minutes or as long as the label says. If you see redness, itching or swelling, wash it off and don't use it again. If nothing happens, go ahead and use it.

A simple way to begin: start with the three core steps, cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen. Then add the toner, and later the serum, one at a time, each after it has passed its patch test. A full five-step routine might take a few weeks to build, and that's fine.

The AAD puts it simply: the best sunscreen is the one you will use again and again, as long as it is broad spectrum, SPF 30 or higher and water resistant. For people with sensitive skin, it recommends mineral sunscreens made with zinc oxide, titanium dioxide or both.

If you buy a Korean sunscreen in the U.S., check which version you're getting. YesStyle sells Isntree's sun gel as SPF 50+ PA++++, while the Amazon listing is labelled 'Broad Spectrum SPF 50+'. Read the ingredient list on the product page before you buy, and see our sunscreen guide for three picks for oily and combination skin.