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Heartleaf skincare for sensitive, breakout-prone skin: a calm routine in 5 picks

Heartleaf, the herb Koreans call eoseongcho, is in some of K-beauty's best-selling toners and pads. Here's what the plant is, what research does and doesn't show, how to build a gentle routine around it, and five products from cleanser to cream.

By K for All editors · 6 min read

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Updated Oct 29, 20265 picks

What heartleaf is

Heartleaf is the English name for Houttuynia cordata, a low plant with heart-shaped leaves and small white flowers. In Korean it is eoseongcho (어성초), meaning 'fish-smell herb', because the leaves and stems smell a little fishy, and it is also called yakmomil. It has long been eaten as a vegetable and used in traditional medicine.

On an English ingredient list it appears as 'Houttuynia Cordata Extract'. Brands present it as a soothing ingredient and put it mostly in toners, pads and serums.

Heart-shaped leaves and white flowers of Houttuynia cordata

Our picks, in routine order

Paid links · Store and booking links in this guide are affiliate links: when you buy or book through them, K for All earns a commission at no extra cost to you. Prices and availability change, so check the store before you buy. How we pick: we compare official information, specs, prices and published reviews; we haven't personally tested every product.

Ordered by search popularity in Korea: Naver search trends for the last 7 days, re-ranked daily. No one pays for a spot.

  1. Abib Heartleaf Spot Pad Calming Touch (80 pads)

    1Step 2, or instead: a calming pad for warm, irritated spots

    Abib Heartleaf Spot Pad Calming Touch (80 pads)

    An Abib listing of four pads, this heartleaf one among them, was No. 6 on Olive Young's weekly pad chart in early October 2026. The double-layered, 100% cotton pads hold an essence of heartleaf extract with sodium hyaluronate and allantoin, and Abib describes it as alcohol-free, fragrance-free, dermatologist-tested and cooling. Use it after cleansing, in place of toner. Sold by Abib Official on Amazon.

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  2. Anua Heartleaf 80% Moisture Soothing Ampoule (30 ml)

    2Step 3, serum: a lightweight ampoule for every day

    Anua Heartleaf 80% Moisture Soothing Ampoule (30 ml)

    Anua formulates this ampoule with 80% heartleaf extract plus hyaluronic acid and panthenol, and lists it as fragrance-free and dermatologically tested, with a fast-absorbing, non-greasy texture. Use it after toner, morning and night, smoothing it over your face and neck. Sold by Anua on Amazon.

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  3. Anua Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner (250 ml)

    3Step 2, tone: the toner that started the heartleaf boom

    Anua Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner (250 ml)

    Money Today credits this toner, made with 77% heartleaf extract, with setting off Korea's wave of heartleaf products. Anua lists it as fragrance-free, non-comedogenic and tested for primary irritation, and says it cools skin on contact. After cleansing, pat it on with a cotton pad or your fingertips, morning and night. Sold by Anua on Amazon.

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  4. Anua Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil (200 ml)

    4Step 1, cleanse: an oil that melts sunscreen and makeup

    Anua Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil (200 ml)

    Anua says this oil dissolves makeup, sebum and sunscreen in one step and is non-comedogenic. Pump it 2 to 3 times into dry hands, massage over a dry face, add water to emulsify, rinse, then follow with a water-based cleanser. Heartleaf extract sits near the end of the ingredient list, and the list also includes fragrance, so patch-test first if fragrance bothers your skin. Sold by Anua on Amazon.

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  5. Abib Heartleaf Crème Calming Tube (75 ml)

    5Step 4, moisturize: a light cream with ceramide

    Abib Heartleaf Crème Calming Tube (75 ml)

    Abib pairs heartleaf extract with eight types of hyaluronic acid and ceramide NP, and the ingredient list also includes niacinamide and panthenol. It describes a soft 'sherbet' texture that balances oil and leaves skin moisturized, and lists the cream as fragrance-free and dermatologist-tested. Worth a look if rich creams feel heavy on breakout-prone skin. Sold by Abib Official on Amazon.

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Why it's so popular

Money Today credits Anua's Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner with starting the boom, and reported that Anua was No. 1 in Amazon's beauty category on Prime Day in July 2024, with sales up 537% from a year earlier.

The trend is still strong in Korea. On Olive Young's weekly pad chart for Sep 28 to Oct 4, 2026, as compiled by Beautics-LAB, a heartleaf toner pad was No. 8, pad listings from Abib and Anua that include a heartleaf pad were No. 6 and No. 13, and eight of the top 100 listings contained heartleaf.

What the research does and doesn't show

Most of the science on heartleaf comes from the lab. A 2024 study in Heliyon found that a flavonoid-rich heartleaf leaf extract slowed the growth of Cutibacterium acnes, a bacterium linked to acne, in test tubes. A 2025 study in Scientific Reports found that heartleaf essential oil inhibited C. acnes and lowered a marker of inflammation in cell cultures, but its authors say skin penetration and real-world effects still need to be confirmed.

That is promising, but it isn't proof that a heartleaf toner clears breakouts. Treat heartleaf as one soothing ingredient in a gentle formula, not as an acne treatment. For persistent acne, the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends seeing a board-certified dermatologist.

A gentle routine for sensitive, breakout-prone skin

The AAD's acne skin-care advice fits well with a heartleaf routine: use gentle, alcohol-free products, apply cleanser with your fingertips instead of a washcloth, and wash your face up to twice a day and after sweating. It also warns against products that irritate, including astringents, toners and exfoliants, so if any toner or pad stings or burns, stop using it.

For moisturizer, the AAD suggests a product labeled non-comedogenic, and a lighter gel if your skin is oily. If your skin is dry, its dermatologists advise avoiding fragrance, which can irritate dry skin.

  • Morning: cleanse gently, heartleaf toner or pad, serum if you like, a light moisturizer, then sunscreen.
  • Evening: remove sunscreen and makeup (an oil cleanser works), wash with a gentle cleanser, then toner, serum and moisturizer.
  • Add one new product at a time, so you can tell which one helps or bothers your skin.
Green toner bottle with a blank label in clear water with small leaves

Plant-based doesn't mean reaction-free

A plant extract can still irritate, and heartleaf products contain many other ingredients too. The cleansing oil above lists fragrance, and some heartleaf pads on Olive Young's chart are 'peeling' pads with exfoliating acids. The AAD also notes that products labeled 'unscented', or made with plant-based botanical ingredients, can still contain fragrance ingredients.

So patch-test every new product. The AAD's method: apply your normal amount to a quarter-sized spot on the inner arm or the bend of the elbow, twice a day for seven to 10 days. If you see redness, itching or swelling, wash it off and don't use it again.

FAQ

What is heartleaf in Korean skincare?

It's Houttuynia cordata, called eoseongcho (어성초) or yakmomil in Korean. On ingredient lists it appears as 'Houttuynia Cordata Extract', and brands use it as a soothing ingredient in toners, pads and serums.

Does heartleaf treat acne?

There's no strong evidence that it does. Lab studies show heartleaf extracts and oil can slow acne-linked bacteria and reduce inflammation markers in cells, but the researchers say effects on real skin still need to be confirmed. For acne that keeps coming back, the AAD suggests a board-certified dermatologist.

Which heartleaf product should I start with?

A toner is the easiest start, since it's a light, single step after cleansing. Anua's Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner is the best known, and Anua lists it as fragrance-free. Patch-test it for seven to 10 days before using it on your face.

Can I use heartleaf with BHA or retinol?

A plain heartleaf toner or serum is usually a gentle layer, but check the label: some heartleaf pads also contain exfoliating acids. The AAD advises against exfoliating while using retinoids, retinol or benzoyl peroxide, and against products that sting or burn.

Is heartleaf safe for sensitive skin?

Brands make many heartleaf products with sensitive skin in mind, but no ingredient suits everyone, and plant-based products can still contain fragrance. Choose fragrance-free formulas, like the Anua toner and ampoule or the Abib pad and cream, and patch-test first.

Read next on K for All

Why heartleaf is trending in KoreaHow to choose Korean toner padsKorean skincare routine for beginnersRoutine Finder: build your five steps

Sources (13)

Money Today (머니투데이), Nov 2, 2024Herald Economy US (미주헤럴드경제) – 어성초Beautics-LAB – Olive Young weekly pad ranking (Sep 28–Oct 4, 2026)Nguyen M.H. et al., Houttuynia cordata leaf extraction towards acne treatment, Heliyon, 2024Sangthong S. et al., In vitro bioactivities of Houttuynia cordata essential oil for cosmetic applications, Scientific Reports, 2025AAD – Acne: tips for managingAAD – How to pick the right moisturizerAAD – How to test skin care productsAnua – Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing OilAnua – Heartleaf 77 Soothing TonerAnua – Heartleaf 80 Moisture Soothing AmpouleAbib – Heartleaf spot pad Calming touchAbib – Heartleaf cream Calming tube

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